Ube City’s Timeless Art and Culture

Ube City, located in Yamaguchi Prefecture, is an off-the-beaten-path mecca of art and culture in Japan.

In 1961, in the wake of Japan’s postwar reconstruction period, Ube launched the “Decorate the Town With Sculptures” movement to beautify and enhance its cityscape. Concurrently, the city also hosted its first UBE Biennale, which is an international outdoor sculpture competition that continues to this day! This citywide dedication to the arts has been passed down through generations of Ube residents and is still well reflected in Ube today—with over 200 sculptures decorating the city. Simply driving or walking through Ube’s streets feels like a museum experience where familiar city life is juxtaposed with thought-provoking artworks.

Alongside its art legacy, Ube is also home to cherished cultural sites and practices that coexist with its urban areas and quaint countryside. This diverse landscape inspires exploration and offers insights into age old customs.

Listed below is a one-day model course of this remarkable city. Ube’s locals are exceptionally friendly and are more than happy to share their home with you. Discover one of Japan’s best kept secrets!

Access to and around Ube City

Ube City’s most convenient point of access is Yamaguchi Ube Airport. This airport services multiple domestic flights daily from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport. The flight time is typically between 90 and 110 minutes. From the airport, Ube’s city center is about a 10-minute drive.

Shin-Yamaguchi Station is also located near Ube City. From Tokyo Station, Shin-Yamaguchi Station is about a four-hour and 20-minute train ride via the Tokaido Shinkansen. From Shin-Yamaguchi Station, you can take the local Ube Line to Ube Shinkawa Station, which is near Ube’s city center. During this ride, you are granted picturesque views of the sea and countryside.

Since Ube’s public transportation can be limited in certain areas, we recommend car travel for this itinerary. There are numerous car rental services available at the airport.

UBE Biennale

First, let’s talk about the UBE Biennale. The UBE Biennale is the world’s oldest international outdoor sculpture competition and has been held every two years since 1961. In 2024, for the 30th iteration of this competition, 30 sculpture models were selected from a pool of 183 entries across 28 countries. Of these 30 sculptures, 15 award-winning works were selected to be displayed on Tokiwa Park’s UBE Biennale Sculpture Hill.

In addition to the present year’s winners, Tokiwa Park also houses approximately 100 permanently displayed sculptures, including past competition winners.

With the park’s verdant grounds as a base and Tokiwa Lake’s tree-lined waters as a backdrop, the UBE Biennale sculptures both stand apart from and within the environment. No two sculptures are the same—showcasing varying designs and materials. Some works borrow the landscape as their own, using mirrors and glass to reflect or distort the scenery in engaging ways. Others are opaque and colorful, significantly contrasting the natural area. Despite their differences, all of the sculptures harmoniously coexist with each other and the venue, exhibiting a grand display of human expression. Exploring the variety of works in an open-air setting is a mentally stimulating and refreshing way to appreciate art. All of the UBE Biennale sculptures have plaques with information in Japanese, as well as QR codes with English translations.

Two noteworthy pieces are the Ant Castle by Ryokichi Mukai from 1962, which is one of the park’s oldest structures and has become a symbol of Ube, and The Birth of Life—2019’s Grand Prize winner.

Tokiwa Park

Perhaps one of Ube’s most renowned spots, Tokiwa Park is a massive greenspace that encircles Tokiwa Lake. This natural getaway has a variety of features, including seasonal flowers and foliage, Tokiwa Zoo, an amusement park, museums, campgrounds, Tokiwa Shrine, and of course, UBE Biennale Sculpture Hill. With its array of offerings, Tokiwa Park is a place where you can easily spend the whole day.

Naturewise, the park is home to 3,500 cherry trees, as well as 20,000 flowers, including Japanese water irises, hydrangeas, azaleas, and roses. No matter the season, the plentiful nature, paired with Tokiwa Lake’s gentle presence, makes for an enchanting stroll or picnic. Tokiwa Museum even has a botanical garden. Children will love the amusement park rides and Tokiwa Zoo, which prioritizes exhibits that mirror animals’ natural habitats. Tokiwa Shrine rests in Tokiwa Lake and offers a mystical experience. As you walk across the vermillion bridge that connects the shrine to the park, you will feel as though you are crossing over into a different realm.

Just like Ube itself, Tokiwa Park is a vibrant compilation of wonders.

piccoro coffee

Piccoro coffee is a modest coffee stand bursting with character. The owner is a travel-loving, self-taught barista whose personality is well-reflected in the shop’s vivid blue interior and passionately crafted menu. Here, you can enjoy cafe staples, such as espresso, Americano, and cafe latte, as well as unique creations like espresso mixed with handcrafted lemonade. The homemade baked goods vary day-by-day, but include eats like pain au chocolat, croissants, egg tarts, and pie. The coffee shop’s inviting atmosphere lends it a nostalgic air that makes it feel like you have visited numerous times before.

Kotozaki Hachimangu Shrine

Kotozaki Hachimangu Shrine is a tranquil, uncrowded complex located amid Ube’s urban landscape. In fact, it is not uncommon for you to have the entire place to yourself. The tree-sheltered area is connected by stone pathways that lead through torii (gates), lanterns, numerous smaller shrines, and animal statues. The main hall rests at the northern end of the main path and greets visitors with its aesthetically alluring and peaceful presence. Beside the building is a smaller shinto shrine with a short, yet pleasant tunnel of red torii.

The complex is also home to Japan’s largest omamori (Japanese amulets) building with over 950 types of omamori for sale. Peruse the shelves, and select the lucky charm that best resonates with you.

Following the path to the southern end of the complex, you will reach a tree-flanked area encircled by stone lanterns and illuminated by dappled sunlight. The collection of trees elevates the shrine’s calming ambience. At the end of the pathway is a descending staircase that passes under a massive torii before reaching the streetside—transporting you back to the familiar world.

After enjoying Ube’s contemporary art scene, Kotozaki Hachimangu Shrine is a wonderful place to admire traditional aesthetics.

One-hour lunch break

Choose any nearby restaurant!

Nagayama Honke Shuzojo Co., Ltd.

Located past Ube’s urban streets and nestled in its charming countryside, Nagayama Honke Shuzojo Co., Ltd. is a sake brewery that solely uses Ube’s agricultural blessings to make its high-quality sake. The brewery’s sake has no additives and consists solely of homegrown rice, koji mold, and underground, mineral-rich water sourced from Akiyoshidai, one of Japan’s largest karst plateaus. Incredibly, only about 30 sake breweries in Japan have their own rice fields and rice husking machines, and Nagayama Honke Shuzojo is one of them! In addition to sake, the brewery also produces a craft beer line called Dr. Kong. The beer incorporates sake rice and sake lees (a byproduct of sake-making) into its flavor profile, creating a unique beverage.

Nagayama Honke Shuzojo’s main building, which was Ube’s former City Hall, houses a small sake shop on the first floor and a cafe on the second floor. The cafe area has a rustic vibe, featuring repurposed sake barrel lids as tables and an overall wooden design that matches the area’s natural beauty. The eatery serves delicious cafe beverages and sweets and offers sake tasting. For 500 yen, you can purchase six coins that each equal one tasting. Try all of the brewery’s offerings! The sake is smooth and easy to drink. Grab a seat by a window, and admire the mesmerizing scenery of rolling farmlands and distant mountains as you sip.

If you are interested in a brewery tour—available from November to March—please send a request through the brewery’s Instagram account in advance. Please note that the brewery may be unable to fulfill your request depending on the time of year and its schedule. English tours are available.

If you plan on drinking, please make sure you have a designated driver.

Akama inkstone artisan workshop visit

Akama inkstones are a type of traditional Japanese craft that originated over 800 years ago in present day Yamaguchi Prefecture. These sophisticated inkstones have long been favored by high-profile figures, and during the Meiji Period (1868-1912), there were around 200-300 Akama inkstone artisans. Although the number of artisans has significantly decreased, this treasured craft still exists today. Through the Ube Convention & Tourism Bureau, you can sign up for a three-hour English experience at Hieda Gyokuhodo Inkstone factory, one of Ube’s two Akama inkstone establishments.

The immersive experience includes in-depth explanations about Akama stone mining and inkstone production from a master artisan. The lecture is set in the artisan’s workshop where you can observe and even hold inkstone tools that he uses in his daily work.

Afterwards, the experience will shift to a neighboring home where you can try your hand at calligraphy while using an Akama inkstone. With just a splash of water and an ink stick, you can create your own ink on the inkstone. The peaceful countryside and provided seasonal Japanese characters for copying, make the calligraphy experience an exceptionally calming one. The course ends with fresh coffee and snacks provided by your friendly hosts.

Yasohachi

End your day with a luxurious meal at Yasohachi. This elegant restaurant prioritizes the use of fresh ingredients purchased that day to craft its dishes. The menu changes regularly to highlight seasonal ingredients and includes a la carte dishes, as well as course meals. The restaurant’s ambience showcases its commitment to cooking with an open kitchen that allows you to watch your meal’s creation from start to finish. The counter seats are prime spots to watch the cooking magic; however, the restaurant also has private table and tatami seating.

Foodwise, we highly recommend the A5 grade Ube wagyu beef. Ube beef is a type of Japanese Black (one of the four Japanese wagyu breeds) that is raised in the Ono area of Ube. This high-quality beef has a rich flavor and an addicting melt-in-your-mouth texture. Each bite feels like your first as your taste buds are sent on a heavenly adventure. Yasohachi is also renowned for its freshly cooked onigiri (Japanese rice balls). While there are many varieties of rice in Japan, Yasohachi uses “Milky Queen” rice produced at Meitoku Farm in Kumamoto Prefecture. This type of rice is characterized by its chewy and fluffy texture. The seemingly simple dish of salt-flavored onigiri is incredibly deep. The rice is served fresh from an earthenware pot and has a soft and luscious mouthfeel. It is an excellent way to end the meal. You are guaranteed to leave with a happy stomach and mind.

Visit Ube City

Ube City is a hidden gem waiting for exploration. From its acclaimed art to its cultural heritage, Ube promises an unforgettable journey interspersed with delectable cuisine. The art-adorned streets and idyllic countryside are filled with passionate locals excited to share their home’s legacy with you.

If you are interested in exploring Ube’s natural side, check out this model course.