My adventure began the night before sailing, at Canopy by Hilton Osaka Umeda. Located in the heart of Osaka, the property is Hilton’s first lifestyle hotel in Japan, making it a great start to my voyage of experiences ahead. The property blends contemporary design with local influences, creating a vibrant and welcoming atmosphere alongside stylish rooms and tasty dining options inspired by the city’s flavors.
After a restful night’s sleep, I checked out and made the short drive to the Sunflower Ferry Terminal. Boarding was simple and efficient, and before long I had settled onboard, ready to set sail at noon. From the moment the ship cast off, it was clear that the 12-hour voyage would be much more than getting from one place to another; there was a variety of special onboard activities.
One was a hands-on workshop hosted by Kagoshima-based cosmetics company Botanical Factory. Participants could create their own unique fragrance while learning about different essential oils and aromatic ingredients in a relaxing and creative experience.
For those seeking even greater relaxation, the ship offered wellness services including hand massages and the Magma Ritual®, a treatment that harnesses the earth’s heat using rare natural lava sourced from active volcano Sakurajima and crafted into hot stones. After spending time exploring the ship and enjoying the views from the deck, these treatments provided the perfect opportunity to embrace the leisurely pace of sea travel.
Adding to the atmosphere was the entertainment. I gathered with guests in communal areas to enjoy various performances of live music, which created a warm, sociable environment.
My accommodation was a comfortable suite that was thoughtfully designed and had everything I needed for a restful stay. There was an ensuite bathroom, personal amenities and a balcony where I could enjoy the changing scenery throughout the afternoon and evening.
An added benefit of my cabin category was access to the Executive Lounge. This exclusive space for passengers in suites and semi-suites offered a quieter environment where I could relax, enjoy complimentary ice cream and coffee and take in impressive views of the sea. Whether reading a book, catching up on work or simply watching the scenery pass by, the lounge quickly became one of my favorite places onboard.
Of course, one of the greatest pleasures of travelling by ferry is the scenery. As I departed Osaka Bay and entered the Seto Inland Sea, the landscape unfolded in spectacular fashion. Throughout the journey I passed beneath impressive bridges that connect Japan’s main islands, each an engineering marvel. Numerous small islands dotted the horizon, creating an ever-changing seascape that was both peaceful and captivating.
As evening approached, I went out on deck to witness one of the voyage’s most memorable moments. The setting sun painted the sky in shades of orange, pink and gold, reflecting across the inland sea’s calm waters. It was a reminder of how rewarding a cruise can be, offering experiences that are often missed when travelling by train or plane.
Later that evening, after an expansive buffet of Japanese and Western dishes, there was an impressive projection mapping show that transformed the center of the ship into a dynamic canvas featuring the starry night sky. It was the perfect entertainment to round out the day and, after taking a soak in the spacious Public Grand Bath, I retired to my cabin. The gentle movement of the ferry lulled me to sleep well before we arrived at Beppu Port around midnight.
The next morning, I took in the view of the city from my balcony, savoring the fresh morning air and the anticipation of reaching a new destination. After a leisurely breakfast buffet, I disembarked the ferry with the other passengers around 7am.
No visit to Beppu would be complete without experiencing the city’s famous “Hell Tour” (Jigoku Meguri), so this was my first stop. Each of these geothermal phenomena offers something different—from vividly colored hot springs to bubbling mud pools and dramatic steam vents—and provides a fascinating insight into the volcanic forces that have made Beppu one of Japan’s most famous hot spring destinations.
And, to experience the city’s renowned onsen culture firsthand, I spent time soaking in several traditional hot spring baths, many with impressive views of the surrounding mountains. Beppu’s local food scene is also worth a try. Be sure to check out the steam-cooked cuisine (jigoku-mushi) prepared using the area’s geothermal heat; the vegetables, meat and dessert dishes were delicious.
Looking back, travelling from Osaka to Beppu aboard the Sunflower Ferry proved to be far more than a means of transportation. It combined comfortable accommodation, engaging activities, excellent facilities, and some of the most beautiful coastal scenery Japan has to offer. For travelers seeking a slower way to travel from Kansai to Kyushu, the Sunflower Ferry provides an unforgettable journey that begins the moment you step onboard.
MOL Sunflower Ltd.’s new Seto Inland Sea Casual Daytime Cruise is operating on the Beppu–Osaka route in June, September, October and November 2026. All departures are at noon, allowing plentiful daylight hours for viewing the Seto Inland Sea scenery, and each features unique activities and experiences. These range from green tea making workshops to performances of traditional Japanese music. For more details, visit https://www.ferry-sunflower.co.jp/lp/day/en/
