Some of the finished kokeshi dolls.  (Photo: Justin Velgus)

Naohide Kokeshi in Matsushima

Your Matsushima kokeshi doll specialty shop

Some of the finished kokeshi dolls.  (Photo: Justin Velgus)
Justin Velgus   - 3分鐘閱讀時間

Kokeshi dolls are wooden dolls originally created and sold at various hot spring resorts in the northern parts of Japan. The art became popular and spread around the whole region. And that leads us to today where we find Matsushima Naohide Kokeshi. The store is not associated with a particular hot spring. Instead it is located on the busy tourist street used by all visitors eager to see the beauty of Matsushima. Inside you will find the only specialty store in the area selling kokeshi. Take a step inside and welcome to the art gallery.

The store is divided into three areas. First you find yourself surrounded by various kokeshi dolls. Keychain-sized dolls to kokeshi the size of a small child are all available for purchase. Shoppers can have peace of mind knowing all prices here are industry norms and not inflated. You can pick up some amazing pieces for just 1000 yen (about ten US dollars). Free gift wrapping is also an option. Kokeshi are all made of wood and usually painted with reds and blacks. But you'll also see some less traditional, though equally artistic examples. One such doll is a miniature of Matsuo Basho, the legendary haiku poet which was at a loss of words upon describing the view of Matsushima's pine tree covered islands.

One corner of the shop is dedicated as the master's workshop. A friendly elderly man makes many of the kokeshi sold on location right here. If you are lucky you will be able to see him cutting and shaping the wood either from the inside of the store or through the outside window. The store even makes a special type of kokeshi doll they call the Matsushima kokeshi. It's shape is not too different than other models, but it is coated in a shiny, almost metallic dark cherry color paint with a poem from Matsu Basho written on it. Buying one of these for yourself or as a gift is highly recommended.

The last area of the store is the experience area. Here for a nominal fee you can create your own kokeshi doll. You will be given a plain wooden doll and some instructions. Motivation for ideas are all around the store, but the possibilities are as endless as your imagination. This is a really fun option with friends or family as you can have a fun time chatting and laughing at your awesome art or fancy failures. It reminded me of when I painted candles in Yamagata.

Matsushima Naohide Kokeshi is located less than a five minute walk from the ferry terminal. You will walk right past it when coming from Matsushima-kaigan Station, but if not paying attention you can easily pass it as well. Keep an eye out and make sure to stop by for your kokeshi doll shopping, learning, and creating experience.

Justin Velgus

Justin Velgus @justin.velgus

Justin Velgus (ジャスティン ベルガス) is the Miyagi Prefecture expert for Japan Travel and a long-term contributor since 2012 with a focus on the Tohoku region.  Justin has written extensively for JT, and other publications such as VisitMiyagi and Sake Today, amassing over 350 published articles...